THINGS have changed at the Crow’s Nest over the last year – and they’re likely to change a lot more. But that’s exactly how executive chef Ese Kousin likes it.
The 33-year-old has been the executive chef for Bournemouth-based Black Label events for two-and-a-half years, splitting his time between the Poole Park eaterie, part of the Sevens Boat Shed building by the lake, AFC Bournemouth and outside catering.
“Everything has to evolve,” he said.
“When I first came here it was an Italian bistro,” he remembers.
“It took a long time for people to stop asking why we were weren’t doing pizza and pasta. I’ve changed the menu and the emphasis now is on fresh food, freshly prepared by chefs that love what they do.
“A year ago the food was different to how it is. Not radically. Just little bits and pieces that make the food that little bit better.
“We are always looking for that extra per cent somewhere along the line.”
Ese and his team are proud to make everything from scratch. Even the bread, whether it be scones, cheese rolls or sourdough bread, is produced by an artisan baker.
“The menu is leaning towards fish, because we are near the coast,” said Ese.
“And everything is British.”
These are the little touches which give the restaurant that extra edge.
That and the fact that it’s clear Ese knows his stuff.
Originally from London, he did an apprenticeship at prestigious eaterie The Grill Room in London, but was sent to Bournemouth College for three years to learn his craft.
Once he qualified, Ese returned to London, where he worked at a number of top establishments including soufflé restaurant The InterContinental and members-only club Morton’s in Mayfair.
But he returned to the south coast around eight years ago to help run a friend’s gastro pub, spending time at many of Bournemouth’s restaurants including Branksome Beach, Landmark, The Print Room, Aruba and West Beach.
During his two years at the latter, Ese oversaw the restaurant achieve two AA rosettes, obtain Michelin recommendation and a mention in The Good Food Guide.
He’s also keen to pass his knowledge to the up and coming chefs in his team.
He added: “The business is always evolving for the better. It just evolves, it’s the best way forward.”
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