ON a warm summer’s evening Bournemouth could almost pass for a Mediterranean resort – apart from the very large, very English pier of course. But that pier only adds to the charm of the view from West Beach, the fantastically-located fish restaurant which sits right on the beach front. With its light and airy feel, pale tile floors and chunky wooden tables, West Beach is right up there with any Spanish or Portuguese waterfront eatery for relaxed dining.

You feel like you’re on your holidays as you sit sipping a Pimms looking out over the magnificent view of the Purbecks to the west and the pier to the east. The clientele is pleasantly mixed – there are families, mature couples and groups of young friends all rubbing along very nicely side by side.

The young staff are smiling and attentive, dealing with a glass breakage beside our table with efficiency and without fuss. We started with some warm pitta bread and houmous (£3) as an appetiser as well as a basket of freshly baked bread and some olives (£3).

This we enjoyed with a beautifully chilled and fruity Vermentino di Maremma white wine (approx £3.50 a glass). Helpfully, the menu suggests good accompanying wines for all main dishes.

My starter of fat, succulent scallops (£10) was beautifully presented in shells with a vibrant green spinach puree while my companion found her salmon with ruby grapefruit (£8) refreshingly zesty and light. For a main course I chose the monkfish, tiger prawn and mussel red Thai curry (£18.50) from the specials board, again beautifully presented and pleasantly spicy with crisp beans and red pepper and fluffy rice.

My companion was very pleased with her nicely-proportioned menu choice perfectly cooked hake (£16.50) with a salty, crisped skin, baby vegetables and a sweet carrot puree. There was some debate about whether we could manage a dessert but we ended up sharing a deliciously creamy Eton Mess panna cotta (£6), set off perfectly by the tangy strawberries and crunchy meringue.

We had noticed on arrival that most of the tables were reserved and it really is no wonder. By 8.30pm the restaurant, including its terrace, was full of happy, chattering diners enjoying the relaxed atmosphere and excellent food. We noticed posters for a lobster and burger night which offers excellent value at £20 for a whole lobster or a juicy burger – a good excuse for a repeat visit.

This really is the best of Bournemouth – an unsurpassed location, truly good food and a great ambience. You really couldn’t ask for more.

West Beach hosts special events such as lobster and burger nights on the last Thursday of every month, and wine flight evenings – the next is a North American wine evening on Wednesday, September 18.

Every Thursday there is live jazz, and the restaurant also offers a grand fruits de mer package for four, including arrival Pimms and a bottle of Bollinger for £250.

To hire the restaurant for a special occasion, email chelsea@west-beach.co.uk