I went to Sienna at the weekend. No, no... before you get carried away by poetic images of Tuscan hills and sun-drenched olive groves I must just point out I'm talking about Sienna in Dorchester.

And I don't mean this in a disappointing way. Far from it. A trip to this Sienna is a huge treat.

Even if you haven't already been there (why haven't you?) you've probably heard about it.

For a small restaurant (and I mean tiny) it has a huge reputation - not to mention three AA rosettes, the most recent of which was only awarded earlier this year.

Run by husband and wife team Russell and Eléna Brown - he's the genius in the kitchen, she's the friendly front of house - I wasn't joking when I said it was small. Let's just say that if you went there with a dozen of your nearest and dearest you would practically own the joint, as it seats just 14.

What I love about Sienna is its total lack of pretention. It's not at the end of some sweeping gravel drive and you don't feel you have to treat it like a some foodie shrine where you spend the evening talking in hushed tones.

Its mere sliver of a shopfront is virtually obscured by a bus stop at the top end of town.

Inside it's simply furnished, but warm and appealing.

With a name like Sienna you'd be forgiven for expecting Italian cuisine, but the food is contemporary English... and divine.

From the amuse bouche which arrives smartly with the drinks to tickle your palate to the petite fours with the coffee its a journey for the senses.

The food here is truly delightful.

To start, I had the panfried fillet of wild seabass with prawn and spring onion mash and a chive butter sauce.

The moist lozenge of fish and the creamy potato were melt-in-the mouth.

I also couldn't resist trying the roasted onion and thyme risotto with caramelised salsify, which was sweet and herby.

For the main course I chose the vegetarian option, goat's cheese with an olive mousse and artichoke hearts.

The warm cheese was perfectly complementated by the cool fluffy mousse.

A strangely soothing combination.

Others in my party raved about the twice-cooked local belly pork with poached pork tenderloin, parsnip purée and apple foam.

The foam, particularly, sums up the utter delicacy of the cooking at Sienna.

It's clear the wine list has been the subject of as much thought as the food.

We opted for a 2004 Reisling which was light and fruity without being overpowering.

The puddings were the cause of much agony as I adore cheese but felt drawn to the baked Valrhona chocolate ripple cheesecake with milk chocolate sauce and malt ice cream (who wouldn't?).

The cheese won out in the end.

Knowing it was locally sourced - as are most of the ingredients used by Russell - I couldn't resist.

Beenleigh Blue, Devon Oke, Rustic White Nancy and Golidlocks arrived with warm walnut bread and apple chutney. Heavenly.

Going to this Sienna might not be on a par with a weekend mini-break, but your tastebuds will certainly feel like they've had a holiday.

Lunch is £16.50 for two courses, £19.50 for three.

Dinner is £27.50 or £33.50 for three.