GOING out for Sunday lunch - it's always such a dicey affair, isn't it? Sadly it really isn't all that hard to find a ropey roast, and that really can be a weekend ruined, if you're a bit of a purist anyway.

Stringy meat, rock-hard roasties, soggy veg - all the potentially insidious menaces are lurking there to wreck your lunchtime.

Thankfully, it should be said at this point, the recently renovated Olive Branch in Wimborne does not fall into this category.

Indeed, only slightly less divisive than a dodgy Sunday roast has been the redesign of one of Wimborne's top watering holes.

The move towards a more bistro-like offering, with a brighter, airier feel to the place, has pleased many but also upset a few of the traditionalists.

Either way, it certainly seems to have had little effect on custom, as the place was heaving on the Sunday afternoon we rolled up.

As for the new look, well if it's food you're after, the new atmosphere is certainly more conducive.

The smoking ban obviously gives places a cleaner, fresher feel, but there is also plenty of room between tables and staff are always on hand to take your order and collect drinks.

The menu offers substantial pub fare with an air of grace about it, with a decent range of starters, from duck and herb pate to asparagus with poached egg.

However, we skipped straight to the mains and though I jumped straight in with the roast beef, it was tempting to be waylaid by the main menu.

A tempting selection for the carnivores certainly, with grilled tuna and sea bass available, as well as pork belly and a selection of steaks.

The roast beef did not disappoint, though. Served layered over a selection of juicy veg and roasties, with a crispy Yorkshire, it was a real treat.

Moist and just pink enough, the beef was pretty much perfect.

The roasties also neatly side-stepped their potential downfall, with a classic outside crunch and inside fluff.

To try out the main menu, my partner chose the fish pie, promising fish and shellfish in a white wine sauce.

Topped with the necessary Cheddar mash, the pie's smell certainly provoked you to dive right in.

And the creamy filling combined with generous chunks of tender fish ensured it lived up to its billing.

Sadly, there was simply no room for pud, but we decided to hang around and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere with a couple of lattes.

Although the prices on the menu may look a tad steeper than your usual pub, the quality of the food certainly justifies the extra charge.

Our bill, with a couple of drinks from the bar, came to £31.