THE Star Inn doesn't exactly sing its own praises from the rooftops, but then it doesn't have to. From the exterior, this is an unassuming, cosy little watering hole in the centre of Ringwood. It was only through different sets of friends and colleagues that we heard about its popularity.

It's great to walk into a traditional pub and not be faced with garish, modern trappings. This 450-year-old inn is just as it should be, with two bars, old beams, fireplaces, a selection of real ales and a family-run feel.

But perhaps its biggest draw is the Oriental menu, including the likes of Thai green and red curries, stir fries, sweet-and-sour dishes and satays.

There's always a blackboard touting specials of the day, but on a recent visit we went for dishes from the main menu.

To start I chose satay king prawns on a skewer - or three skewers to be precise - each with two large, plump, moist prawns on board. The satay sauce itself was just perfect, being gooey and home-made with just the right amount of garlic and spices. I loved the fact that the prawns were smothered in it (no half measures here!).

My friend had his usual favourite - salt and pepper squid. Try this, I urge you. Instead of rubbery little rings, this lovely seafood was served in big, tender slices and coated with the best batter in the world, being crumbly and salty (but not TOO salty). The tasty medley of sautéed onions, chillis and peppers were the perfect accompaniment.

To follow I chose the chicken in plum sauce. The battered breast meat came in tasty nuggets, alongside plenty of chopped onions and peppers in a tangy, spicy sauce similar to sweet-and-sour but with a bit of a twist. Side orders are extra, and I went for steamed rice, prettily presented in a large timbale on the side of the plate.

My companion's deep-fried sea bass also hit the spot. He had a choice of a black pepper or a chilli sauce and he went for the latter. The delicate fillets were lightly battered, but no part of the fish was wasted, as the rest was battered for decoration - and perfect for picking at.

He chose soft noodles as his accompaniment, which could have been a satisfying dish in itself.

Those with a sweet tooth may be slightly disappointed that no desserts are served here, but the chances are you wouldn't have room for one anyway. The portions are so good we have often waddled out of here after only two courses.

Another possible downside is that the actual size of the pub may restrict the size of your gathering. During busy times it can get a bit cosy but it all adds to its character.

As far as I'm concerned, this Star is very much in the ascendant. Our bill, without drinks, came to £32.35.