I AM old enough to remember beautiful Beirut when it was the jet-setters playground of choice, the hippest destination in the Middle East.

One of the over-riding memories that lingers for anyone who used to visit that wonderful city back in those happy, heady days is the smell and taste of Lebanese food: a light and refined combination of gentle spices and delicate flavours that at once seemed subtly more sophisticated than those on offer in neighbouring countries.

It looked spectacular too. For the food of Lebanon was the result of a culinary and artistic tradition that was steeped in a history shared over centuries with invaders from ancient Rome, Greece, the Ottoman Empire, France and Persia. All left a positive mark on the cooking pot.

Somewhere along the line, this place where Middle Eastern influences meet those of the Mediterranean, developed its own unique cuisine.

Based on delicious, simple and (a big plus this) healthy ingredients, many Lebanese dishes use pulses, vegetables and fruit as their staples. Aubergines, chick peas, nuts, tomatoes and sesame (as seeds, paste or oil) are a common feature, as indeed are onions, garlic, cucumber, yoghurt, lemon, parsley and mint. Favourite meats include lamb and chicken. Then of course there are the flatbreads, rice and salads.

Happily Lebanese food, like good news, travels well and in Britain today it's becoming increasingly easy to find. We are particularly fortunate to have a restaurant like Retro in Bournemouth offering excellent food at reasonable prices.

A friendly and pleasantly casual bistro cafe bang, slap in the middle of wonderfully cosmopolitan Charminster, it was full of middle-eastern people the night we went - a highly encouraging sign.

With slightly battered decor, it nonetheless exudes an easy and comfortable charm My wife and I visited with friends. We had a great evening of good food and good conversation. We began with a selection of shared starters that included Foul Moukala, a marvellous mixture of green broad beans cooked in garlic with fresh coriander leaves and olive oil. Then there was Falafel, a longtime favourite made from ground chick peas and broad beans tossed in spices and deep fried, and Fattoush, a mixed salad with herbs served with toasted Lebanese bread.

The final choice was Makdous Batinjan - delicious pickled aubergines stuffed with walnuts, spices and garlic.

For main course I went for Shish Taouk - grilled boneless chicken that had been marinated in garlic, lemon juice and olive oil, accompanied by a fresh green salad.

My wife chose a succulent lamb and aubergine special with rice and yoghurt, while our friends had dishes that included Kafta Halaibeh - minced lamb, onions and parsley - and a chicken special served with rice and salad. We also shared a side dish of grilled spicy lamb sausages.

All in all a splendid and tasty meal which we completed with a selection of traditional Lebanese pastries, mint tea and Lebanese coffee.

Our meal for four with two beers, two gin and tonics and sparkling water came to £85.20.

Retro also caters for parties and special occasions, and offers home delivery.