GENUINE Italian restaurants owned and run by Italians are few and far between, but the Amalfi, tucked underneath the Wessex Hotel on West Cliff Road, Bournemouth, may just be one of the great undiscovered secrets in the county.

Mind you, undiscovered might be the wrong word, for despite its unassuming entrance down some steps at the side of this large hotel, plenty of locals already have this restaurant's number on speed dial judging by the regular flow of customers even on a Tuesday night.

The best restaurants keep their clientele and friendly, attentive co-proprietor Luigi and his excellent staff, as well as the chef patron creating authentic Italian dishes in the kitchen, are some very good reasons why people keep coming back.

The restaurant also has that authentic Italian feel and an ideal atmosphere for relaxation.

But the proof of the pudding - as well as the starter and main course - is in the eating and although there's a wealth of choice in the list of appetisers and entrees, we both plumped for mussels in white wine and garlic.

These were wonderfully fresh and tender and, with some bread to savour a sauce with its own individual kick, it was the perfect choice.

For main course, it was a case of when in Amalfi, do what the Italians do and my spaghetti carbonara was quite simply stunning, with a rich, ultra-creamy sauce, crisp bacon and perfectly al dente pasta. My wife's Vitello Valdostana - tender breaded pieces of veal cutlet with a tasty sauce and topped with Mozzarella cheese and served with fresh vegetables - was equally mouth-watering.

To accompany this feast, Luigi recommended a crisp Verdicchio, a rich and full white with concentrated fruit.

I'm not sure whether it's considered an insult to pass on Italian desserts, however full you are, but my orange sorbet was the perfect light and refreshing choice after the filling two courses, while my wife loved the creamy raspberry crème brulée.

Luigi, however, wasn't satisfied with that, and brought out some small samples of the very varied dessert menu and the chocolate mousse, floating islands and mocha Amalfi are simply stunning.

Amalfi may be a restaurant whose location helps it hide its light under a bushel, but it's well worth seeking out if you love an authentic taste of Italy.