WITH the English Channel lapping up on Bournemouth beach, it’s something of a mystery why the town doesn’t have more seafood restaurants. It makes perfect sense; the produce could go from sea to plate in less than a food mile.

Now there’s a new kid on the block. Dubbed the Crab, this seafood joint is situated opposite the BIC and even has a view of the ocean.

Keen to sample the delights of this new eatery, I popped down last Monday with my girlfriend.

Unfortunately, thanks to over-fishing I try and avoid seafood nowadays, I get “the guilt” you see. There’s no tuna left, cod’s on the brink; it’s an ethical minefield.

Happily, the Crab’s local-ish à la carte menu seemed suitably sustainable (no cod or blue fin to speak of), so I pored over it while a friendly waitress poured us a Hendrick’s and tonic.

With its dark brown floorboards, matching wooden furniture and dim down-lighting, the restaurant has a certain understated elegance, which was amplified as the sun went down.

I particularly liked the intimate bar tucked away in the corner, which is a cosy, chic affair and fabulously well stocked – you could have a good night here without eating a morsel.

Not that I’d be doing that – ordering the moules marinière to start followed by the butter poached turbot with samphire, oysters and caviar.

Meanwhile my girlfriend opted for the Severn and Wye smoked salmon with pickled cucumber, crème fraîche and caviar to start and the wild sea bass with mussels, scallops and fennel sauce for mains.

As we waited, a selection of home-baked breads was brought out to us, which we duly dipped into the ramekins of butter and olive oil that arrived with it. Our appetites were whetted.

The gin and tonics quickly ran out so we asked the waiter for a wine recommendation and before long there was a bottle of Albariño on the table – great choice, garçon.

The food took its time, but frankly we weren’t in a rush with our wine and sea views.

Testament to the old adage “good things come to those who wait” were our starters; my mussels were cooked to perfection and the sauce they were floating in was groan-inducingly good.

The delicious smoked salmon was also a winner.

So too were our mains. I know it’s rude to lick your plate (especially in a fancy gaff like this), but I really wanted to after my turbot and oysters in its heavenly caviar cream. Sublime.

Vociferous in her praise of the sea bass and scallops, my girlfriend said the dish was faultless and thought the fennel sauce was a great twist.

To be honest we’ve been waxing lyrical about our dinner there ever since and although it didn’t come cheap (the best part of £100 with booze), you don’t begrudge paying for food of this calibre.