ONE of my favourite pubs, the Bull Inn at Wimborne St. Giles, kicked off its what has been dubbed an “occasional dining club” last week.

I’m told it’s the first of many gastronomic events pencilled in for the pub, which hopes to bring gastronomes together for fun, food and wine.

Hosted by the convivial proprietor, Mark Thornton, the inaugural club meeting welcomed representatives from the New Zealand wine producers, Cloudy Bay, who gave talks on each of the wines that they had provided for all four of the courses.

Happily I managed to get an invitation to the soiree, which cost most diners £55 a head.

Those at the pub had already formed a bit of a clique, so I had to make do with the lovely barmaids and canapés for company – no hardship I can assure you.

After a talk by the rep from Cloudy Bay, which was a tad dry if you’ll excuse the pun, we were seated for dinner.

The conversation soon began to flow, dominated by the delicious food that was placed in front of us – as ever the chefs at the Bull Inn didn’t disappoint.

There was a fabulous mussel chowder to start; the coriander and lemongrass added a beautiful depth to the dish without stealing from the delicious, plump mussels.

A main course of fennel-rubbed pork belly with parsnip puree and wild mushrooms was, frankly, a triumph. The tender pork fell apart in my mouth and the stick of crackling was a beautiful contrast to the silky smooth puree. A goats cheese soufflé arrived before a dessert of apple tarte tatin and vanilla ice cream, which left a sweet taste in our mouths.

Although Cloudy Bay’s offerings paired particularly well with the food, the night belonged to the chefs who did an exemplary job.

The company on my table was lively and I was entertained when I eavesdropped on other guests describing the wine.

“Mmmmm, I’m getting gun flint,” claimed one diner.

A new one to me.