WHEN Dee Ringsell took over the Chequers Inn two years ago, it soon became clear that it would take a labour of love to restore it to its former glory.

From the outside rather modest and unassuming, the inn actually boasts a fascinating history and a spacious interior.

But it was to take a considerable amount of work and investment by Dee, her partner Martyn and their team to reverse the effects the years of neglect the pub had suffered.

Now, with a talented young team in the kitchen and front of house, and Dee’s philosophy of ‘treating people the way I’d like to be treated’, the pub is on the up again.

At just 10 minutes’ drive out of the western end of Poole it’s a country pub within easy reach of the conurbation.

If you’re over about 5ft 8 in tall, take care as you enter – the first part of the pub is the original building, some 300 years old, and has an extremely low ceiling.

Packed with historic charm and boasting pub favourites like a roaring fire in the winter and a large, sunny beer garden in summer, it oozes atmosphere.

The restaurant is spacious and caters for 100 covers, with a large conservatory area, which can be used for functions. Tables are not crammed together so there’s plenty of room for pushchairs. A baby changing table in the ladies’ – a rarity in pubs – adds to the family-friendly credentials.

The food is superb, with a standard menu and a regularly changing selection of specials. The pan-fried lambs’ kidneys in a cream and brandy sauce were delicious, though rich for a starter, while the Severn and Wye smoked salmon with sour cream and capers was light and tasty.

For mains I tried the pork two ways – a twice-cooked belly of pork and slow-roast loin, which came in generous portions with a rich apple gravy, well-cooked veg and bacon bubble and squeak – and my guest opted for a succulent chargrilled sirloin steak with a mountain of chips, onion rings and peas.

Defeated to the extent that we could only manage to share a dessert, we thoroughly enjoyed the sticky toffee pudding with its fabulous toffee sauce, creamy vanilla ice cream and accomplished toffee tuile.

With regular live music, and a friendly atmosphere when the place fills up, the Chequers Inn has plenty to offer in addition to excellent food and is well worth a little drive into the country.