I’m swimming from a boat in a turquoise sea, surrounded by a shoal of silver fish reflecting the sunlight from a bright blue sky. And it’s almost November.
This morning I had breakfast outside by the bay and later, after the picturesque little boat docks back at the hotel’s private jetty, I’ll be eating a delicious lunch in an historic, attractive square in a pretty town inland.
It took just a couple of hours to be whisked from a blustery English autumn to this summery paradise on the beautiful – and very handily placed – Mediterranean island of Mallorca.
My base was the Hotel Illa d’Or, a timeless gem of a place where guests have been cossetted and cared for since the 1920s. This year it celebrates its 85th birthday, commemorated with a major redevelopment programme of all 120 rooms.
The hotel was originally a private holiday house, converted to a hotel in 1929 and extended and improved over the years to reach its 4* Superior status today.
But with antique furniture, paintings and photographs of the original owners and their daughters decorating the public areas it still feels as if guests are staying in a private house.
The welcome from the friendly staff is a big factor in the repeat business – many guests have been back for 10, 20 or 30 years and wouldn’t dream of holidaying anywhere else.
And when they return for a special anniversary stay, they often find that something has been organised to mark the occasion.
Agatha Christie stayed here in the 1930s, and described the Illa d’Or in her story Problem at Pollensa Bay “...a small hotel standing on the edge of the sea looking out over a view that in the misty haze of a fine morning had the exquisite vagueness of a Japanese print...”.
There was no misty haze on my fine mornings, just a stunning sunrise and the sound of gentle waves rolling onto the beach. Bliss.
Centuries ago the Mallorcans had no idea their beautiful island’s biggest selling point would be sun, sea and sand.
Fear of pirates led them to build their towns inland, which is why the peaceful, historic town of Pollensa is a few kilometres inland from former fishing village Puerto Pollensa, where holidaymakers now lap up the beauty of the sparkling bay.
A tight hold on tourism in the 1970s and ’80s means the resort is still pretty and unspoiled, with pleasingly low-rise buildings and space for cafes, bars and restaurants around the waterfront.
The Hotel Illa d’Or sits like a grand old lady at one end of the Pine Walk around the bay, where holidaymakers promenade thoughout the long season’s sunny days and balmy nights.
Its antique-filled public areas and smart bedrooms add up to a relaxing atmosphere and the friendliness and efficiency of the staff ensure everyone feels at home.
Many of them have seen years of service at the Illa d’Or and our waitress explained the appeal: “Here, we’re like a family.”
Then there’s the private jetty and the boat, which ramps up the feeling of being pleasantly spoiled.
Reclining luxuriously on the Isabel Maria is a real movie star moment – she is the same boat that Grace Kelly, by then Princess Grace of Monaco, used to hire in the 1960s for days out during her holidays on the island.
The beautiful latin rig ‘llaut’ has some other great tales to tell – she was originally a fishing boat, built by a young Mallorcan who had fallen in love with a beautiful girl on the neighbouring island of Menorca.
He named his new boat Isabel Maria after her – and got the girl.
Years later the llaut was used for smuggling goods from North Africa onto the island and fell into disrepair.
But she’s since been lovingly restored and the original owner, by then an old man, was thrilled to see her transformation.
This year Hotel Illa d’Or residents will be able to hire her and her skipper Amador for a day or half a day’s blissful sailing and swimming. Our experience was fantastic – the sort of day that makes a holiday perfect. A post-swim on-board feast of tapas introduced me to the extremely civilised Mallorcan custom of a ‘second breakfast’... they know how to appreciate food on this island.
For me discovering new tastes is always a major part of any trip, and Mallorca has so many delicious dishes on offer.
One of the first I tried, as I sipped chilled sparkling rose by the waterside soon after arriving and let the holiday feeling wash over me, was fritto Mallorquin, a tasty dish of potatoes, vegetables and seafood served as part of a delicious tapas which was beautiful to look at as well as taste.
The seafood is wonderful – I’ve never tasted sweeter or more succulent prawns.
And for meat-eaters there’s the incredibly popular sobrasada, a spicy, soft, spreadable sausage enjoyed on rustic bread.
Pamboli is a great example of how delicious the simplest dish can be – literally just bread and oil, and often the base for squished ripe tomato and garlic, making a perfect tapa.
With so much natural bounty, it’s no surprise that much of the island’s industry should be food and drink based.
I visited the Can Vidalet vineyard for a wine-tasting just as the setting sun was turning the surrounding Tramuntana mountains pink and gold.
Wine has been made in North Mallorca’s ideal conditions since the Romans were in business and at Can Vidalet it’s a perfected art.
The mellow reds I tried tasted of ripe fruit and sunshine and were all the better for being sipped on the peaceful, picturesque terrace overlooking the fields where the grapes are grown.
Tours and tastings are on offer to visitors wanting to experience the vineyard ambience.
At the Finca Es Guinyent deliciously fruity green extra virgin olive oil is produced under the Solivellas label by the family owners, who also produce delicious olives with surprising flavours, including vanilla, honey and curry.
This area of Mallorca is also home to Teixits Vicenc, another family-run business producing the distinctive Mallorcan ‘cloth of tongues’ ikat fabric, a beautiful, heavy material in a dazzling range of colours and prints.
The whole process, from dyeing to weaving and finally displaying the luxury end products for sale, takes place in the small factory at the crossroads between Pollensa and Puerto Pollensa.
Mallorca is a beautiful island, often overlooked by travellers who think it’s necessary to go far afield for luxury, sunshine and fabulous food.
Now I’ve been made to feel part of the Illa d’Or family I’d return in a heartbeat to the embrace of this special place.
Getaway
- Hotel Illa d’Or – hotelillador.com. Approximately 45 mins transfer from Palma airport, this classic hotel offers a private jetty, spa & health club, outdoor pool and seafront dining.
- Classic Collection Holidays (0800 294 9318) offers 3 nights from £540 (or 7 nights from £836 per person), based on 2 adults sharing a twin/double room on a half board dining basis and includes return flights and private transfers. See classic-collection.co.uk
- Pollensa Hotel Association offers info on tourism and activities – enjoypollensa.com
- Can Vidalet winery – canvidalet.com
- Finca Es Guinyent olive oil producer – olisolivellas.com
- Teixits Vicenç artisan workshop and store – teixitsvicens.com
- Món d´aventura, specialist sport & activities operator, info@mondaventura.com
- Cafè Plaça, Plaça Major, 4 Pollensa, Tel
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