WE sat in strained silence in the back of the cab, wondering if our Portuguese taxi driver was taking us for a ride in more ways than one!

Neither of us had been to the Algarve before, so we didn't know what to expect, and as we'd both forgotten our driving licences, we couldn't hire a car for our long weekend break.

We had no idea where we were either - we seemed to be heading north from Faro airport through some rather barren-looking countryside.

But after 15 minutes or so, our taxi suddenly veered left and started heading up a gravel track past lush green lawns, water fountains and lakes.

There in front of us was the Monte do Casal Hotel surrounded by almond trees, palms and exotic flowers.

Although it sounds like a bit of a cliché, at that moment it really did look like a little oasis to us.

We got a warm welcome from the hotel manager and almost before our bags had touched down in the lobby, we were each handed a flute of chilled champagne.

Now this was more like it! Our room wasn't quite ready as we were early so we were guided to the outdoor restaurant terrace over-looking a swimming pool and the hotel gardens.

Bearing in mind it was early November, it felt as if the clocks had been turned back to the height of an English summer - and we didn't even have to adjust our watches.

We sat with the sun on our faces enjoying another complimentary drink before taking a turn (as they say in Jane Austen novels) through the grounds.

Everything was still in full bloom and the gardens were a blaze of colour. All the lakes are planted with tropical water-lilies and filled with colourful Koi fish.

Our room turned out to be a large suite with a bathroom, bedroom, living-room and a huge balcony where a light Continental breakfast was served each morning.

We also had a fantastic view across the garden towards the coast, which was an unexpected bonus, as the hotel is higher than it first appears.

All 18 bedrooms were booked when we were there, but because the hotel is set in three acres, you still feel as if you've got the place to yourself.

There's a putting green, gym, two swimming pools (each with a Jacuzzi) and also a separate villa just a short walk from the main hotel.

We thought the place was actually better in real life than it appeared in the brochure - and that certainly doesn't happen very often!

Apparently it has taken 21 years to transform this former 18th century manor house into what is now an award-winning boutique hotel.

But it's not just another nice place to stay. The owner, Englishman Bill Hawkins, goes out of his way to ensure that his guests have a good time - and this is what really sets it apart.

Every Friday night he hosts a cocktail party where you get to meet some of the other guests. The canapés were so delicious I could have feasted on them all evening.

The real gourmet highlight was the Menu Degustation, where you get to try five smaller portions of the chef's best dishes. Each course is accompanied with a glass of wine selected by the sommelier.

The restaurant is very cosy with lots of alcoves, an open fire, big comfy sofas and live music.

But back to Bill. His inside knowledge of the area is invaluable and he will happily arrange day trips from the hotel.

There are lots of pretty unspoilt market towns nearby, as well as miles of beautiful sandy beaches.

Although most people tend to stick to the coast when they visit Portugal, we were taken on a tour with a few other guests to a local olive press and then on to a mountain-top cafe to sample some of the local fare, including wild boar stew.

Even though it was a really diverse group of nationalities, we really gelled. Perhaps there was something in the sangria or the mountain air - but whatever it was it turned out to be one of the most memorable lunches of my life, and I wouldn't have missed it for the world.

Needless to say we were in a much happier place by the time we made the taxi ride back to the airport.

Factfile

EasyJet flies from Gatwick to Faro from just £22.99 one way (£40.98 return) including tax - to book online, go to easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905.

  • To find out more about the hotel, visit montedocasal.pt