Gosford lark

It is only when sitting in the lofty majesty of the Cathedral Room with its gothic windows and crackling log fire that one begins to regret not having a name like Cecilia and a husband that talks like Noel Coward Still, one can't have everything. Although, actually, at Bovey you pretty much can.

Once a sporting estate famous for the hospitality of its country house parties, little has changed. Shooting, fishing, riding and a whole host of other attractions, including a very fine golf course and a spa have ensured its reputation for entertainment and comfort remains.

They say an Englishman's home is his castle. Back in 1907, the then heir to the WH Smith empire, certainly took this literally when he was building his formidable family seat in the heart of Dartmoor.

Sitting at the top of a sweeping drive, this stately home, now a five star hotel, has all the imposing grandeur of a castle if not the architecture. For it is less battlements, more Balmoral in its feel and this is reflected in the style of welcome you can expect to receive.

From the moment you are greeted by the ghillies at the door, your bags magicked away to your room, your car removed and a glass of champers put in your hand - my dear, there's nothing as vulgar as a check-in, they have a man to do all that for you - one feels, well, really quite at home.

Nothing seemed to be too much trouble for the delightful staff. There wasn't a hint of snootiness which one sadly often comes across in hotels of this calibre, they were friendly, charming and endlessly helpful.

After a generous top-up of bubbly, we were escorted to our suite, a sitting room, bedroom and bathroom, the latter two with spectacular views over the wooded hillside and moor beyond.

Within five minutes my husband was on his way down to check out the swimming pool and I was testing the waters in the vast claw-footed bath, so deep, I wouldn't have been surprised to find a lifebuoy nearby.

Downstairs, the distant tinkling of a piano helped us navigate our way through the wood-panelled corridors for cocktails at the bar. Then to dinner in the elegant, softly lit dining room. Meals here are grand affairs, although for all the trappings, it is the food itself which is the real star of the show. The meat and fish is all locally sourced and, as you would expect from a grand establishment, the wine cellar is extensive and includes some bottles dating back to when Bovey was built.

Just like those country house parties of the past, the days may be busy, but the evenings are very much at leisure.

After dinner, liqueurs and coffee are taken by the fire. This is a mellow time. A moment for snuggling back into the embrace of the plump, squashy sofas and unwinding. Tables are strewn with papers, magazines and books, but for many, soft conversation or simply watching the flickering, dancing flames in the magnificent fireplace is enough.

After a refreshing night's sleep and a hearty breakfast a whole host of activities awaits. Each morning starts with a falconry display which will certainly wake you up. There is nothing like a bird of prey swerving past your head at 80mph to set the senses tingling.

From then on, there is an almost endless list of indoor and outdoor occupations, everything from horse-riding to pistol shooting fishing to archery - even sloe gin making!

My husband, being a keen golfer, was itching to get out onto the immaculate greens surrounding the castle - voted a United Kingdom top 100 course by Golf Monthly magazine. I preferred to wander around the immaculate green of the restored Edwardian garden which runs down to the burbling River Bovey.

We managed to fit in a visit to the spa for a heavenly facial and massage using Elemis products. Frankly I could have spent the day down there, swathed in a fluffy robe being pampered to within an inch of my life.

Later I insisted on a trip to the neighbouring (no pun intended) Miniature Pony Centre where you can wander among these charming little bundles of fluff and pet them. There are also opportunities to help with grooming and feeding.

This is is a great place to bring children, who, incidentally, are welcome at the hotel. Bovey Castle has a dedicated play barn and youngsters from 7-14-years-old can join Bovey Rangers during school holidays when special activities are put on such as canoeing, abseiling, cricket and tennis.

Children even have their own high tea together away from the adults. A sort of modern-day version of nanny whisking the children away to the East Wing After two nights at Bovey we decided it really was time to get out of our comfort zone and explore the surrounding countryside. The hotel has a booklet of circular walks from the hotel, of varying lengths.

We opted for a brisk five mile hike over the moors which took in a little woodland and some pretty hamlets, too.

Bovey has a bank of wellies for walkers to borrow and one of the ghillies gave us a couple of bottles of spring water to take with us as we left. It is thoughful little touches like this that make a weekend at Bovey so enjoyable.

It was with a heavy heart we packed to leave the following morning.

As the car was brought round we took one last lingering look at the castle. It had been a great weekend and best of all, unlike those house parties of old, we don't need to wait for an invite to come back Bovey Castle, North Bovey, Dartmoor National Park, Devon, TQ13 8RE; phone: 01647 445000; website: boveycastle.com Room rates per night, based on two people sharing and including breakfast, start at £250 for a mews room, rising to £395 for a deluxe room with valley view. State rooms and suites are also available.

All guests have complimentary use of the spa, including indoor and outdoor pool.

There is also a daily falconry display on the terrace as well as wine tasting in the castle cellars every evening.