Hidden India

But while this might not be a cheap hippie trail through South Asia, neither is our visit one of old-fashioned opulence, with exotic elephant rides or maharaja-style luxury, as was once sought after by many a well-heeled traveller to the colonial jewel in the Crown'.

This is the new' India: one of the world's largest economies, with a staggering growth rate of 8.5 per cent in 2006 and 2007, a film industry rivalling Hollywood and a population set to overtake China's by 2030.

Amid vast social and cultural changes, the typical tourist experience is undergoing its own transformation.

We're staying at the Park Hotel in Delhi, which admittedly offers luxury beyond the means of most locals (it has a rather overwhelming staff to guestroom ratio of more than two to one). But as one of the country's first boutique hotels, its contemporary take on Indian hospitality seems a suitable starting point for exploring the changing subcontinent.

Set back from hectic Connaught Place - the commercial hub of New Delhi - the hotel's modern and funky design could be at home in any cosmopolitan city, but there is an emphasis on Indian traditions presented in a new light.

The hotel is inspired by the five elements of nature - water, fire, air, earth and space - from the Hindu science of Vastu Shastra. So while you may prefer to unwind at Aqua, the chilled out poolside area offering cocktails and international cuisine, for a spicier lunch or dinner you can enjoy the award-winning Indian restaurant, Fire.

Our mammoth meal here kicked off with a delicious plate of chaat' - a sophisticated twist on the Indian snacks usually served at road-side stalls. Five courses later, a mouth-watering dish of the popular ginger kulfi (frozen milk) and betel leaf rasmalai (sugary balls of soft cheese) is proof that it's worth resisting second helpings of naan bread to leave room for the often-overlooked Indian desserts.

After such a feast, it is tempting to collapse in Aura, the hotel's day spa, for another 90-minute massage or a honey and milk facial. Again, this is luxury the Indian way. The spa uses local ingredients and traditional treatments from the ancient healthcare system of Ayurveda.

But Delhi is knocking on the door - we have sights to see (not to mention calories to burn), and walks around the beautiful Indo-Islamic Qutub Minar, the world's tallest brick minaret, or the stunning Mughal-designed Humayun's Tomb, are best appreciated in the late afternoon sun.

Juxtaposed with the stately calm of these must-see sights is the chaos of local people going about their everyday life, with their hands firmly pressed on their car horns wherever you go.

If your nerves are up to it, hurtle along in a cycle rickshaw towards the enormous 17th century Red Fort, and get lost on foot in the winding bazaars around Chandni Chowk street. Here the pandemonium of Old Delhi is far removed from the gracious boulevards of Edward Lutyens' New Delhi and the swanky surroundings of our hotel.

On our return to the Park, however, we were instantly thrown back into modern, upscale India at the trendy Agni bar, a popular spot to watch Delhi divas strut their stuff and dance until the early hours.

In contrast the next stop on our trip, Chennai, formerly Madras, has a relatively small-town feel - despite being home to well over four million people.

The city, a two-and-a-half hour flight south from the capital, is India's fourth largest metropolis and the state capital of Tamil Nadu.

Down here in India's deep south, there is plenty of culture to rival Delhi's offerings. It's well worth the 60km drive from Chennai to the 7th century temples and sculptures at Mahabalipuram, carved with intricate scenes from Hindu mythology and the Panchatantra animal fables.

For a modern-day, but no less impressive, flavour of Tamil Nadu culture, take a tour around the classrooms of the Kalakshetra Foundation, where youngsters learn the traditional dance form Bharatanatyam.

It's a fascinating glimpse into a monastic-like retreat, something akin to a strict spiritual Indian version of Fame Academy.

As one of the teachers explains to us, competition for places is fierce, but students are expected to devote four years to rigorous training in dance, music and fine arts - and it shows in their disciplined performances.

Conversely the feeling is festival-like down at Marina Beach in Chennai, where hundreds of locals gather at weekends to picnic, paddle and fly kites. It's a perfect place to watch the sun set.

The relaxed vibe continues back at our base, the city's own Park Hotel, which has a more laid-back atmosphere than its bustling counterpart in Delhi.

Food-wise, the offerings in the south are largely vegetarian, but in a different league from your average British town centre balti house.

The Park's all-hours 601 restaurant, one of three eateries in the hotel, offers a huge range of international and Indian dishes, from the unusual main dish of blueberry kofta (dumplings) to traditional south Indian fare such as masala dosa (a crepe stuffed with potato, onion and spices).

Dedicated foodies may want to take home a copy of a book by local cooks Jigyasa Giri and Pretibha Jain, Cooking At Home With Pedatha.

Jigyasa, who lives in Chennai with her family and is also a professional dance teacher, tells me that the south is a far better place to bring up children than "fast paced" Delhi. But even here, she feels times are quickly changing.

"There is a new India on the horizon", she says. "Greater exposure to the world at large has brought about immense confidence and ambition in the youth of this country. I just hope coming generations remember their national and cultural roots and grow, using them as their anchors of support. For no tree grows and spreads branches without strong, living roots."

TRAVEL FACTS

Rachel O'Brien stayed at The Park in New Delhi, where prices start at £172 per night for single, £198 for double occupancy. B&B rates at The Park Chennai start at £135 for single and £148 for a double occupancy, call 0800 055 6817.

Specialist operators to India include Greaves Travel, which currently offers seven-night packages to Delhi and Chennai, including BA World Traveller economy class flights, with Jet Airways flights between Delhi and Chennai, B&B accommodation at Park Hotels, and excursions in air-conditioned cars with guide, from £1,669 per person, based on two sharing. Greaves Travel reservations: 0207 487 9111 and greavesindia.com