THE Connaught has been described as perhaps the most attentive AA 3 star hotel in Bournemouth'.

Centrally located on the West Cliff in an acre of its own grounds, it was built around 1901 and formerly a gentleman's residence.

Its restaurant, called Blakes, has undergone a recent refurbishment, introducing modern décor and furnishings, but respecting original period details such as the ornate cornicing on the ceilings.

It's open to non-residents, and if October brings a chill in the air, you may want to peruse the menu in the tastefully decorated lounge bar with open fire place. Or if the season is more mellow, head to the conservatory bar which opens out onto a terrace.

Its commitment to sound food quality and the freshest ingredients have earned Blakes an AA Rosette, making the Connaught only one of three hotels in Bournemouth to be awarded this accolade.

Meeting resident head chef, Paul James, it's easy to see why. He's brimming with enthusiasm, and he insists that only local or seasonal produce makes the grade.

He also stresses how all the pastries, sauces, breads and doughs are made from scratch, in-house, right down to the bar snacks. And if you have a specific dietary requirement, no problem, he'll talk the menu through with you and make sure your needs are catered for.

As well as an a la carte menu, there's a daily table d'hote, priced just £19.95 per person for three courses which represents excellent value for money. You can also mix and match courses from both menus.

I stuck with the table d'hote, and to start went for oriental tempura vegetables, lightly battered with a soy sauce dressing. At first I wondered if they should have come with a dip, but soon realised they didn't need one as the taste of the vegetables shone through. I was also surprised at how large the portion was, but it wasn't over-filling.

My partner had the ham hock & confit chicken terrine (£6.50) - an impressive slice comprising chunky and moist meats interspersed with tiny mushrooms. The accompanying red onion chutney was also a real winner.

To follow I had the grilled fillet of plaice in a tangy lemon butter dressing, dotted with capers and sitting on a seasonal spinach mash. Buttered asparagus finished off this very enjoyable feast.

The New Forest venison (£17.50) from the a la carte menu was my partner's unwavering choice of main course and the pan-fried loin was a beautiful piece of tender meat, seasoned and cooked with care, served with turned vegetables, rich jus and a herby Celtic pancake.

For dessert I opted for the panna cotta - home made, of course - and delightfully creamy, served with a lightly spiced poached pear, full of the tastes of autumn.

My companion chose the beautifully rich lemon posset. The medieval milky concoction was given a 21st century slant by being baked in a tart, and had a sumptuous texture. We were also treated to a taster of the home-made ice cream which could give any Italian a run for their money.

Our waiter recommended wines to accompany our main courses - an unoaked New Zealand chardonnay for me and a spicy cabernet sauvignon for my friend.

The quality of the food, unsurpassable service and its convenient location has to secure Blakes a position as one of the top dining establishments in Bournemouth.

  • Blakes at the Connaught Hotel, West Hill Road, West Cliff, Bournemouth, Dorset BH2 5PH, 01202 298020.