FEW can argue that May is one of the most beautiful months in Dorset. The hedgerows are thick and lush, roses nod around front doors and gardens are bursting with colour and life.

At this time of year, the four-acre gardens at the Priory Hotel in Wareham are looking their absolute best, and many diners choose to sit on the terrace for a lunch or afternoon tea overlooking the peaceful River Frome.

Or for evening guests, perhaps an al fresco drink before adjourning to the candlelit Abbots Cellar restaurant.

I’d not visited this delightful little gem before, but was immediately struck by its quaint surroundings and equally charming yet unpretentious interior.

The former priory – dating back to the early 16th century – was once a sanctuary for nuns, and later monks. While it has been sympathetically converted into an English country house hotel it hasn’t lost any of its essence.

There are plenty of nooks and crannies as well as impressive spaces such as the comfortable drawing room where we studied the menu with canapes and a drink. Choosing from a list of nine starters and 10 main courses was tough, as everything looked so good. I eventually went for the beetroot, thyme and goat’s cheese filo parcel to start while my friend chose the warm lamb samosas.

Sometimes goat’s cheese can be a little heavy – my parcel was anything but. From the knife’s first crack though the light pastry to the gooey cheese to the tangy red onion marmalade, this starter was a joy. As was my friend’s warm lamb samosas, stuffed with butter-soft meat and accompanied by an aubergine pickle and herby Greek yoghurt.

To follow I was nearly swayed by the pan-fried spicy bean and vegetable patties with smoked cheddar and a thyme sauce. However, the roast guinea fowl was just too tempting. The plump breast meat – very similar to chicken – had a crisp skin and was stuffed with a delicate asparagus mousse. It was served on chive creamed potato, with oyster mushrooms diced chorizo and thyme sauce.

My friend really enjoyed her baked pave of halibut, wrapped in air dried ham and so perfectly cooked it just flaked apart in moist chunks. This beauty came with confit of fennel, roast cherry tomatoes and artichokes, saffron potatoes and chervil cream. While eating, she remarked: “You know, I think this is the best piece of fish I have ever had.”

The desserts were equally pleasing, with me once again enjoying cracking – this time a spoon – through the top of my crème brulee. The crème had been infused with orange and at the bottom was a layer of pink rhubarb.

A chunky compote of fruits was my friend’s choice, and she chose to have it warmed. The tasty medley wasn’t too sweet and included the likes of figs and apricots, lightly spiced like Christmas, and with a choice of creams to accompany.

The vaulted restaurant, which used to be an undercroft, was now a very ambient room with crisp linens and exposed brick walls.

It’s little wonder that many choose The Priory Hotel as a place to head for a special occasion, but at £39.95 all in for three courses plus coffee and petit fours, that’s a perfect excuse to head there when there IS no other excuse.

The Priory Hotel, Church Street, Wareham, Dorset BH20 4ND. Phone 01929 551666.